Basque Country is a unique and fascinating region. It preserves its own language – not like any other, though it straddles both sides of the French-Spanish border. Located just west of the Pyrenees, and with an Atlantic coast lined with stunning crescent beaches, it is an area that is lush, jagged, and tranquil all the the same time. I came to see Basque Country as it once fostered a porous border which made it the perfect escape route for Conversos trying to flee from the Portuguese and Spanish Inquisitions in the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries. What better way is there to visit France’s old Portuguese communities than to first retrace the route that their ancestors took to get there?
I began my journey with a flight into Bilbao, Spain (the things you can do when you already live in Europe!), though straightaway took a bus to beautiful San Sebastián. Without a doubt I knew that I was in Spain, with the town’s Marisco cafe, Cervantes Square, and tapas topped with all kinds of things that I can’t eat. Still, it was a gorgeous setting, and it served as a reminder to me of all of the beauty that the Conversos/Crypto Jews were sadly forced to leave behind.
From there I took a local train to the border town of Irun. What better way to experience the Converso escape route than to cross the border by foot? Europe’s open borders meant that I could simply cross the footbridge over the Bidasoa River into Hendaye, France almost without even realising that I had left Spain. In fact, David Graizbord writes in ‘Souls in Dispute,’ that some Conversos in this region continued at great risk to travel back and forth across the border in search of livelihood. I, however, celebrated my crossing into freedom with my first ever Facebook live video!
From there it was onto the former fishing hub of Saint Jean de Luz. This was an important early settlement of France’s Portuguese Jews, though at the time they still had to live outwardly as Catholics as France was a Catholic country. However, as there was no Inquisition there they could at least live privately as they saw fit. As a result though, there are no ‘Jewish’ sites to visit. Still, I must say that this small town was my favourite seaside resort of all of those that I saw. The beach and the bay are absolutely beautiful and they are lined with old wooden homes. The town itself is incredibly atmospheric. It also includes the home where King Louis XIV lived when he married Maria Theresa of Spain, daughter of Philip IV in 1660. Their marriage sealed the Treaty of the Pyrenees which brought peace between their nations.
The Portuguese Conversos eventually made their way further north to Bayonne and even beyond Basque Country (though still within the French region of Aquitaine) to Bordeaux, where my trip concluded. I will write more about those communities in forthcoming posts. It is important to note though, that Conversos also settled in smaller villages around Bayonne (such as in Peyrehorade, Bidacme and La Bastide) and many of their cemeteries remain (though I didn’t have time to visit them). This is significant as we tend to think of the Portuguese Jews as merchants with their major port dwelling communities. However, we must remember that many of them were coming from the interior regions of Portugal, such as Guarda, Trancoso and Belmonte. I therefore imagine that for many of them life in crowded cities like London and Amsterdam must have been quite difficult. Perhaps then, those who chose to settle in the villages of southern France may have at least found a degree continuity and comfort in those more familiar rural settings.
This journey was a transformative experience for me. I always find that through visiting a place of historic relevance that I come to better understand the events that transpired there. In this instance though, I also came to appreciate the disorienting effects that come from a reluctant move. A person in such a circumstance is forced to leave a place that is their home and that they may deeply love. Furthermore, they must also try to find a new place to live, likely in a place with a new language and culture, and where the local population may not even want them there. Such a relocation must be a terrible and traumatising ordeal. My heart goes out to all people forced to flee from persecution.
In particular, as I now reflect upon my trip, I more keenly feel for today’s Jews of France who love living in France but may feel that they now have no choice but to find a new home. As Jews in England, Israel, or America, we must do all that we can to make them feel welcome. We must offer them comfort as they likely mourn internally for their former homes and for their prior sense of belonging. In that light I can also now better understand those that choose to remain in France and to fight for their rights and for their country’s future. Either way it is an awful decision to have to make, and it is a dilemma that I now more deeply feel having walked in the footsteps of the Conversos.
Many thanks to my friend and colleague, Natan Perez, Hazzan of Amsterdam’s Portuguese Esnoga, for helping me to plan this adventure.
Dear Rabbi Shalom,
I have thoroughly enjoyed your “escape” from Spain to France experience, the route of my ancestors.
Congratulations and much thanks for sharing this experience
Your Jamaican Jewish friend
Thank you for your kind words. They encourage me to go further!
I value your friendship 🙂
Rabbi Morris, may we ruin this story in HaLapid, the journal of the Society for Crypto Judaic studies?
It’s very nice to hear from you.
It means a lot to me that you think my experience would be of meaning and interest to others. I’d be happy to collaborate. If you would, pease just send me an email and we will work it out!
All the best
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Dear Rabbi Shalom,
Just one small correction, it’s Trancoso and not Trancosa 😉
All the best,
Thanks for reading and thanks for the correction!
All the best,
Thank you for sharing all this important information. I know very well these cities that you visited on your journey. I lived in Bordeaux in the early 80s and I’ve been many times to Donostia to visit friends, and always going through all these places. Now after reading your travel impressions I have another look at this place. Thank you very much.
Thank you for the comment. It’s been a pleasure! Athias is an important name in the area and I’ll actually mention it in my upcoming post about Bordeaux. Really wonderful places to visit, so enjoy!
All the best,
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Dear Rabbi Shalom Morris,
It is with great interest that I read the story about the Conversion escape route.
However you have mentioned one historical fact not correctly.
The Infante Maria Theresia of Spain was married to king Louis XIV of France, le Too Solely, and not to Louis IX.
Thank you for the kind words. I’m so pleased you enjoyed the post. And thanks for the correction! Not sure how that mistake crept in :).
Louis XIV of France was called “le Roi Soleil” – and not as I mistakenly dotted down previously – or the Sun King, and also Louis le Grand (Louis the Great). He was France’s absolute monarch, who ruled France from 1643 until his death in 1715.
Thanks for the further clarification!
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It was great to see your articles about the converso escape route, which I’m sure my ancestors followed in some form. However, I feel there’s a piece missing from all this, which I’d like to put in its place.
That is: Not all conversos entering the Languedoc from Spain, returned to open Jewish practice. Many of them encountered Huguenots, who were very helpful in getting them settled there, and the conversos at first masqueraded as, and then intermarried with, the Huguenots… still maintaining their legacy as descendants of Jews, and preserving some Jewish customs in the family,
Just as regular conversos are returning to Judaism in significant numbers- there are many converso-Huguenots who are also returning. Sometimes they return, without realizing their family history- since the Huguenots were also forced to flee to many other locations due to persecution in France.
They escaped to England, Ireland, South Africa, Australia, Germany, South Carolina, Virginia, and Switzerland, spreading the Jewish Spark in far-flung places.
It would be nice to see this not-as-well-known bit of history, mentioned together in crypto-Jewish history!
That is really interesting. Thank you for sharing it will everyone. Might you have any readings to recommend?
Shalom, here is a site that has info on this topic. I hope it’s informative!
See this site for info re: Huguenot conversos:
Click to access Who%20were%20the%20Huguenots.pdf
Thank you! I look forward to reading it. Best, Shalom
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Appreciate you bloogging this